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Carhartt WIP Detroit Jacket: Versions, Sizing and How to Wear It

Carhartt WIP Detroit Jacket: a short canvas jacket with a corduroy collar

Journal · Product guide

Detroit JacketCarhartt WIP

A 1950s work jacket that ended up staying on the street.

The Detroit is Carhartt WIP's most recognisable jacket: Dearborn canvas, a corduroy collar and a short, boxy silhouette. Here are the differences between the Winter and the Summer, how it fits and the alternative if you want a hood.

In short

Winter or Summer? The Winter has a blanket-style lining and nylon-lined sleeves: it is the warm one. The Summer is unlined and closes at the cuffs and hem with snap buttons: lighter, for the in-between seasons.

How does it fit? Loose and boxy, with room for layers underneath. For reference, the Summer model is 186 cm tall and wears a size M.

01 · The origin

From the job site to the street

Carhartt has been making workwear since 1889, when Hamilton Carhartt began producing overalls in duck and denim. The jacket we now know as the Detroit was introduced in 1954 and for years was simply called the Zipper Jacket: short, in hard-wearing canvas, with a zip and the corduroy collar that sets it apart.

Carhartt WIP (Work In Progress) was born in 1994, when Edwin Faeh set up the company to distribute Carhartt in Europe. In 1996 it obtained the licence to manufacture outside the United States, and the following year it released its first collection and opened its first store, on Neal Street in London. WIP brought workwear closer to a street cut, and the Detroit became one of its signature jackets.

Carhartt WIP Detroit Jacket with its short, boxy silhouette
Carhartt WIP Detroit Jacket worn as an outer layer
Images: Carhartt WIP.

02 · Winter vs Summer

One jacket, two seasons

Both share the cotton Dearborn canvas, the corduroy collar and the front zip. What changes is what goes inside and how the cuffs and hem adjust.

Winter

Blanket lining

A warm blanket-style lining in the body and nylon-lined sleeves, so it slips easily over other layers.

Winter

Two-way zip

Two-way zip, adjustable cuffs and hem, a zipped chest pocket, side pockets and an inside pocket.

Summer

Unlined

Organic cotton Dearborn Canvas, with no lining. Lighter and easy to wear as an outer layer between seasons.

Summer

Snap buttons

Cuffs and lower band adjust with snap buttons, plus side pockets and a zipped chest pocket.

03 · Spec sheet

Winter and Summer, in figures

  • FabricWinter: cotton Dearborn Canvas; 340 g and organic cotton on the Dark Navy. Summer: Dearborn Canvas, 100% organic cotton.
  • LiningWinter: blanket-style in the body, nylon in the sleeves. Summer: unlined; pocket lining in 65% polyester and 35% cotton.
  • FasteningWinter: two-way zip. Summer: front zip.
  • Cuffs and hemWinter: adjustable. Summer: adjustable with snap buttons.
  • FitWinter: loose and boxy. Summer: short and structured, with a straight body.
  • CareSummer: machine wash up to 40 °C and tumble dry up to 60 °C. Winter: follow the care label.
  • ReferenceWinter: I015264. Summer: I033112.

04 · At ECRU

Detroit Jacket

Shop Carhartt WIP →

The Winter in Dark Navy and Tobacco, the Summer in Hamilton Brown and Black, and the OG Detroit in 13.5 oz Smith denim.

Carhartt WIP Detroit Jacket Winter in navy with a black collar

Detroit · Winter

Dark Navy / Black

340 g organic Dearborn and a blanket-style lining.

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Carhartt WIP Detroit Jacket Winter in Tobacco brown with a black collar

Detroit · Winter

Tobacco / Black

Dearborn canvas, corduroy collar and a blanket-style lining.

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Carhartt WIP Detroit Jacket Summer in Hamilton Brown

Detroit · Summer

Hamilton Brown / Tobacco

Unlined, with snap buttons at the cuffs and hem.

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Black Carhartt WIP Detroit Jacket Summer with a black collar

Detroit · Summer

Black / Black

All black, unlined and in organic canvas.

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Carhartt WIP OG Detroit in washed blue denim with a brown corduroy collar

Detroit · OG

Blue / Dusty H Brown

13.5 oz Smith denim, old used wash and a striped blanket lining.

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05 · Sizing

Loose and boxy

The Detroit has a loose cut with a boxy silhouette; the Summer is short with a straight body. It is not a fitted jacket: the volume is part of its shape and leaves room for layers underneath. On the Winter, the nylon-lined sleeves also help it go over a jumper.

For reference, the Summer model is 186 cm tall and wears an M; on the OG Detroit, 183 cm and also an M. The rigid finish feels firm at first and softens with wear. If you are between two sizes, you can try it on in our La Orotava store.

Carhartt WIP Detroit Jacket with its short, waist-length cut
Short, waist-length cut.
Close-up of the corduroy collar on a Carhartt WIP jacket
The corduroy collar.
Carhartt WIP photograph accompanying the Detroit Jacket guide
Images: Carhartt WIP.

06 · Alternative

Active Jacket: the hooded version

If you want the same idea with a hood, the Active Jacket is its natural partner: Dearborn canvas, a front zip, a kangaroo pocket and rib trims at the cuffs and hem. The Active in Hamilton Brown is 11.3 oz Dearborn Canvas with a rigid finish; the OG Active jackets are 12 oz organic cotton Dearborn with the original loose cut.

The OG Active Black also has a diamond-quilted lining in the body and sleeves. And if you only want the nod, there is the Mini Active Jacket keyring, with a metal ring for your keys or backpack.

07 · At ECRU

Active Jacket

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Hooded Carhartt WIP Active Jacket in Hamilton Brown

Active Jacket

Hamilton Brown

11.3 oz Dearborn, hood and kangaroo pockets.

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Carhartt WIP OG Active Jacket in Hamilton Brown, front view

Active · OG

Hamilton Brown

12 oz organic Dearborn and an adjustable hood.

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Black hooded Carhartt WIP OG Active jacket

Active · OG

Black

Diamond-quilted lining and rib-knit cuffs and hem.

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Carhartt WIP Mini Active Jacket keyring in Hamilton Brown

Keyring

Mini Active Jacket

The Active in miniature, with a metal ring.

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08 · To complete the look

What to wear it with

The Detroit calls for trousers with some body: a canvas Single Knee, Payson jeans or a Simple Pant. We compare them in our Carhartt WIP trousers guide.

Underneath, a Chase T-shirt or an S/S Pocket. You will find them in the Carhartt WIP sweatshirts and T-shirts guide.

FAQ

Questions about the Detroit

Which version of the Detroit is warmer?

The Winter, thanks to the blanket-style lining in the body and the nylon-lined sleeves. The Summer is unlined and made for the in-between seasons.

What is the difference between the Detroit and the Active Jacket?

The Detroit has a corduroy collar and a zip, with no hood. The Active has a hood, a kangaroo pocket and rib trims at the cuffs and hem.

How do I wash the Detroit Jacket?

It depends on the version. The Summer can be machine washed up to 40 °C and tumble dried up to 60 °C. For the Winter and the OG Detroit, follow the care label.

Where can I buy Carhartt WIP in Tenerife?

At ECRU: in our La Orotava store and online at ecru.es, with shipping to all the Canary Islands, mainland Spain and the Balearic Islands.